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91/377: Vallermosa

INSPIRATION

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I’m leaving in the north direction. The road that leads me to Vallermosa is a long straight stretch. The fields all around are completely flooded by the rains of this period. I pass over the motorway 130, it is already the second time that I cross it after the Domusnovas-Museums stretch, and immediately afterwards I also cross the great river Cixerri, owner of this valley. It starts to drizzle. Today’s weather is completely unstable.

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At the entrance to the village a beautiful mural welcomes me with an important message. I get to the city center, where mayor Francesco, deputy mayor Chiara, councilors Roberta, Diego and Daniele are waiting for me. After the welcome moment, they take me to the bar and then to the pastry shop S’Offelleria to let me taste the typical sweet ‘su moretto’. I am also given a tray of ‘zeppole’ and other ‘morettus’ that will keep me company for the next two or three breakfasts! The main square contains a very old tree just in front of the facade of the church of San Lucifero. They tell me that Vallermosa is the only village that has the devil as a saint. Then we go to see the church of Santa Maria, next to which there are the remains of Roman baths, among immense eucalyptus trees.

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The weather is now ruined, it is raining and it is very windy. However, we go to visit the archaeological site of Matzanni, which is located in the mountains behind the village. This area is part of the Monte Linas complex and borders with the municipalities of Domusnovas, Iglesias and Villacidro. We drive up a very steep rocky road and arrive at the top where the site is located. It starts to rain heavily, with mixed sleet, but we can still see something. Here there are three sacred wells, 700 meters above sea level! One of these is very well preserved. You can distinguish the walls and the stairs that go down to the well that at this moment is full of water. Not far away there are also the remains of a temple. Unfortunately it is too cold and it rains too much to stay and then we get back in the car and go down to the farm Is Prunixeddas where they are waiting for us for lunch, special land appetisers, pasta, pork and a phenomenal lemon lamb. The lunch is long, with dessert, coffee and ‘ammazzacaff√®’.

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In the afternoon they take me to the Wunder Hotel of Tullio and Daniela, who kindly take care of my hospitality. I work and rest a little bit. In the evening Simone Cavagnino joins me for an interview that will go on Unica Radio. We take a coffee at the bar, rowdy for a game on TV, and we do the interview in the car, under heavy rain on the roof. Later, at the end of the evening, I meet local musicians with whom I play some rock music classics in the theater room next to the library. Great time and everyone is happy to have participated, three guitarists (one with a very particular voice) and a very young singer, very good (I forgot everyone’s names!). The mayor and the councilor are present at this meeting and propose the organization of an event right here, proud of the musician youth of their village.

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SOUND FRAGMENTS

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SHORT SARDINIAN STORIES

New meetings, old meetings. On the way uphill to Matzanni, in the middle of the sleet storm, we pass four people, two males and two females, who are walking up with shabby umbrellas. We are sure that they will go back, given the weather. But after a while, when we are at the top, we see them arrive. We cross each other and start chatting. They still want to visit the archaeological site. Nothing stopped them. Hinting at my project, I come to find out that the two girls are friends with Francesca, the photographer who took the beautiful photos that you can admire in the Facebook profile of the 377 project. What a coincidence. We leave after having wished them a good return, and we head to the farm Is Prunixeddas, much lower. Here, with great surprise I meet Salvatore, the vice mayor of Villa San Pietro, who I discover is one of the two owners of this place and he serves us the fantastic lunch already described. Another coincidence! And when we are already towards the end of lunch, here come the four people from before, wet and hungry. We say hi and chat again. Before leaving, we start talking about my project, and new offers of hospitality come out from them, in countries of Sardinia where I will be shortly. Here’s how the hospitality network is developing. Stopping to talk to people, without any fear or reticence. And telling my adventure always with a smile, even if I have already told it at least 91 times!