362/377: Samatzai


Noble building in the historic centre

Mayor Enrico and Deputy Mayor Andrea welcome me to the village of Dionigi Burranca, the last representative of the launeddas school in Trexenta. I am taken around the territory. After passing the Italcementi quarries, we arrive at the white Su Nuraxi, a limestone nuraghe, where strange circular incisions on the stone create an aura of mystery.

Strange circular carvings near Su Nuraxi

Somewhere in the countryside is the Perd’e campana, two mobile rocks that banging together sound like a natural bell tower. Then there is Sa boccia ‘e Ferranti, a spherical rock with different cupels on the surface and a semicircular cut at the base. Not far from these mysterious stones, reeds were collected for the construction of launeddas, who knows for how many centuries.

The parish church of San Giovanni Battista

Mario from the Proloco takes me on a tour of the village centre. I can admire the baronial palace of the Marchesa Darcais, the parish church of San Giovanni Battista, the Monte Granatico next to another noble palace, and then many mud brick houses, many of which empty, and some close to collapse.

Raw earth brick house

Around the church of Santa Barbara there was once a cemetery but now only roads built on it remain. In a Campidanese house with a large courtyard there is the blacksmith museum, Sa Domu De Su Ferreri Farris, while in some places nativity scenes are prepared for the upcoming Christmas, one for each neighbourhood.

In the courtyard of the blacksmith museum

After dinner they organised some music in the rehearsal room, rock atmosphere, together with the musicians Andrea, Gabriele, Diego and Fabio. I am now very tired but I release as much energy as possible on the ukulele, also tired from the kilometers traveled!





Early in the morning before leaving, Pino Melis, who hosted me for the night, takes me with him to pick up and accompany the children of the village to school. It is the “Piedibus” (foot-bus) as he calls it: while walking around the streets, the parents leave the children to Pino, who form an orderly line.

Pino smilingly tells me that he plays with the children to be a ticket inspector, asks everyone for tickets, it seems that some children claim to have a season ticket. They are all intrigued by my presence, a strange bearded gentleman dressed as a cyclist.

“Too bad you left your bike and ukulele at home” Pino tells me, “you could have played and I would have told everyone that our Piedibus also has a radio!”.