34/377: Bonarcado


At the entrance of Bonarcado (pic by Massimo Deligia)

Today it’s all downhill! A few kilometers, under the sun even if it is cold, with an amazing view of the valley, you can see all the Oristanese. The road is crossed by a lot of water that comes down from the mountains, sometimes real streams that I can not avoid and that force me to slow down.

Nostra Signora di Bonacatu sanctuary

At the entrance to the village, Vice Mayor Loredana and her husband Massimo are waiting for me, Massimo cycling and dressed as a cyclist. They take me to the main square where I can admire two marvelous sacred places, the grandiose church of Santa Maria and behind it the small shrine of Our Lady of Bonacatu, with a beautiful facade of two-colored stones set with ceramic plates.

Colourful corner in the historic centre

Massimo and I continue for a bike ride through the narrow streets of the historic centre, with well-tended basalt houses, and low stone arches between the houses that lead back to the main street through secondary roads.

We head towards the exit of the village and after a short country road we arrive at a beautiful Roman bridge, with three arches, under which flows a lot of water.

Roman bridge

In the afternoon we leave the bikes and take a ride in the car. First stop is the Sos Molinos waterfalls, in that beautiful gorge that I have already seen this morning coming from Santu Lussurgiu.

From the road you can already hear the sound of water, but slowly we descend the steep path that runs along the vertical rock walls, the noise gets louder and louder. We arrive at the bottom and the waterfalls appear before us imposing, noisy and with a very strong jet of water.

They tell me that rarely so much water has been seen here. Going up another path we can push ourselves right next to the point where the water falls, and we see the waterfall from above, impressive.

Overlooking the Abbasanta plain (pic by Massimo Deligia)

We drive back up to a famous cherry tree field, which in spring offers a floral show to see. The view from here is breathtaking, from the Abbasanta valley to the Gulf of Oristano.

The evening has a surprise: the polyphonic choir Su Cunsertu Bonarcadesu welcomes me in the church of Santa Maria where they are rehearsing. The place in the dark is magical and their music is even more magical.

Between a song and the other I can play the ukulele inspired by their beautiful music, different from all the music I’ve heard so far, and I go to bed happy.



Improvised on the chords of a song performed by Su Cunsertu Bonarcadesu.




Sos Molinos waterfalls

Campanilist diatribes continue among neighboring municipalities for the possession of beautiful natural places.

After Monte Gonare, disputed between Orani and Sarule, and the granite monument Sa Crabarissa, between Austis and Neoneli, here we have a dispute between Santu Lussurgiu and Bonarcado on the possession of the Sos Molinos waterfalls.

Some say that they belong to Bonarcado because the entrance, through a path with steps, is located in this territory. But the reality is that the border between the two municipalities passes right on the river, and therefore the falls are located exactly between the two.

Bonarcadesi and Lussurgesi, find peace of mind, and make peace on the question falls, they belong to both, my word of geologist!