13/377: Desulo


Woods on the Fonni-Desulo road

I start from Fonni full of energy, ready for the great climb that will take me first to the base of Monte Spada and then the climb that arrives at the Tascusì pass, the highest point I will reach during my project, 1246 meters above sea level. It’s cold and I calmly get on.

After crossing the plateau at the base of Mount Spada, one of the most beautiful views seen so far opens up, an immense wooded valley. For a while I swoop down enjoying the view, down to the river, and I stop for a while at the fountain.

Then again, long way up to Tascusì, in the middle of oaks that give way to firs. We are at the top and it’s cold. Clouds cover the mountain tops. I wear a scarf and a cap and finally I swoop down to Desulo.

House in the historic centre

The village is on one side of the mountain and the roads run parallel at various levels, joined by deadly climbs (or descents!) At the Town Hall Antonella welcomes me ad she walks me go around the historic centre of one of the three districts, Issiria.

She explains that originally there were three villages, Issiria, Ovolaccio and Asuai, all lined up, which were then joined by the provincial road 7 forming a single village, Desulo. There are many ruined houses, but some well-renovated, and everything is very impressive … and also very tiring with all the uphills and downhills!

At the Multimedia Museum

Evening with the Mayor Gigi, who walks me to see more or less all that is important in Desulo. First, the Multimedia Museum dedicated to the figure of the poet Antioco Casula called Montanaru, where the projection of my hands activate poetry reading (I copy one that I will use for my musical fragment).

Then, the photographic exhibition on the walls of the village center Sogni Meridiani by Tore Ligios, all dedicated to the poetry of several authors; the murals, the one that strikes me most depicts the tragedy of three shepherds dead in Tascusì more than a hundred years ago, just where I passed this morning, caught by a snowstorm.

At the end Gigi brings me to greet the polyphonic choir Anninora, where I get offer a good glass of red wine, and to the local butcher, who will recognize me as ‘the one who is cycling across all the Sardinian villages!’.

Chestnuts, typical product of the area



Inspired by the rhythm and musicality of Montanaru’s poetry. Written at the Belvedere B&B.



View from the village

I leave the bike resting on the wall of the Town Hall, on the main road, a bustle of inhabitants, some busy others not. Scattered here is a selection of comments from different people:

– Are you coming from Fonni ?? The assisted pedaling, did you have it ??

– What is that instrument? Ah a bass, no, no I only play 6 or 12 strings, at most 24 (?!?!) But 4, not really!

– Want to race? My bike is a racing beast, I have mounted these special cogs, and then you see that the rear wheel is small and the front one is much bigger, so that’s why it’s a bomb!

– Watch out for dogs! (Did they know that at the exit of the village I would have chased a fierce dog ?? If I was doing the race of the previous question I would have won for sure, so fast I was going to sow Fuffy Doggy).

– Careful to leave your bike here, my friend is from Tonara!

I think this is their good-natured way of making me feel welcome in the village!